Posted in Work

Studio

When I signed up for an urban planning degree I had no idea the extent to which Studio papers would dominate my academic life. These papers teach students about urban design principles, both through learning the various theories and through applying them at different scales. The work is presented on A3 posters, typically as a combination of text and graphics.

For me, these papers were an enormous learning curve, and one that was particularly stressful in the first semester. To produce work to a suitable standard we were expected to use Photoshop, and, later, AutoCad, and these are not easy things to learn while also trying to produce work for submission. Photoshop is not at all intuitive when you’re trying to get to grips with it, and even after two and a half years my skills are very basic.

My friends and family have heard and seen how much my Studio papers have dominated my university life. Each assignment would require so much work – not just to digest design theories and come up with concepts, but to physically produce the posters for submission. We also typically had to write a 1,500 word report to support each project. Formatting pages in Photoshop is such a laborious process, and pretty much the worst kind of task for anybody with latent perfectionist tendencies (like me): you can’t help but want to make sure every line is perfect, and it’s exhausting. Our tutors would work with us on a consultation basis: we’d produce work, they’d critique it, we’d try to fix it, they’d critique it some more, we’d try to fix it again, we’d cry, we’d threaten to drop out, and we’d finish everything at the last minute. Because of the nature of the consultative process, it was seldom possible to finalise design decisions until late in the project, because you would continually refine your work in response to tutor feedback and the theoretical stuff you were reading.

However, a fortnight ago I finished the final studio assignment of my degree – a cause for great celebration. So, for your viewing pleasure, here’s a sample page from each of my assignments. Amongst many other things, it shows how my design skills have improved, albeit very slightly…

First Year

1: Street scape study

This was an attempt to learn about the principles of urban design (legibility, permeability, etc). The Photoshop skills required for this one nearly killed me.

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2. Residential typologies

We were allocated different residential typologies and had to find a good example of our option, and write about it. My example was a cool building in Zurich.

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3: Designing an apartment building

We were allocated an existing residential site and had to demolish the house and replace it with a small apartment building, which we had to design. I tried to design a family-friendly building, to challenge the idea that families in New Zealand can only live comfortably in detached houses. We were expected to hand draw all of our plans, which was seriously challenging.

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4. Analysing a block and its surrounding area

This was my least-favourite assignment of the entire degree…

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5. Redesigning a low density housing area

This was the continuation of the last assignment, and involved redesigning the street network, and replacing low density housing with apartments.

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Second Year

6. Analysing my neighbourhood

This and the following assignment were my favourites – I love working at this scale, and I want to specialise in community design when I’ve graduated. In this assignment, we analysed our own neighbourhoods according to neighbourhood design principles, which included producing a hand-drawn map from memory, to see how we actually perceive where we live (blank spaces in some annotations are the result of me removing identifying information).

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7. Neighbourhood redesign

I absolutely LOVED this assignment. We were allocated a neighbourhood near where we lived, and had to redesign it to better incorporate design principles (to support things like a better pedestrian experience – with smaller blocks and fewer cul-de-sacs, for example) and higher density housing to complement existing low density housing.

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8. Designing according to the Unitary Plan

The Unitary Plan is the document that will shape Auckland for decades to come, but there are many questions regarding the design outcomes that are likely as a result of its rules. For this assignment we had to redesign a site in accordance with the Unitary Plan.

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9. Designing a town centre

For this project we had to redesign an area designated by the Unitary Plan as a town centre. We were told that the design had to include a central plaza, so this was mine. I made use of a lot of photos I’d taken in France, to illustrate my design ideas. This was also my first time designing with AutoCad, which was wonderful once I got used to it: so much easier to make changes.

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Third Year

10. A ‘catalogue’ for a future design

This assignment involved developing a ‘catalogue’ of buildings, in order to design according to the guidance provided for creating a Pedestrian Pocket (a transit-oriented development).

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11. Regional design strategy

For this assignment we wrote a big literature review to explore concepts related to regional growth strategies, and supplemented it with a proposed strategy to add 70,000 new dwellings to a currently-rural part of Auckland.

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12. Group regional growth strategy

For our second-to-last assignment we had to work in small groups, collectively refine our regional growth strategies, and write a report to explain our decisions.

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13. Transit-oriented Development

My last Studio assignment! I designed a transit-oriented development, designed to provide housing for around 4,000 people, and jobs for around 8,000 people (using a lot of the ‘catalogue’ I developed from a few assignments earlier).

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Despite the huge amount of work involved, and the severe stress and sleep deprivation that producing assignments often entailed, I did really enjoy this component of the degree – no feeling at uni matched the satisfaction of finishing these enormous projects, or of getting good grades for them. Although I don’t intend to pursue an urban design career as a practitioner, the area of the field upon which I would like to focus will definitely make good use of the knowledge and experience I’ve gained. 

Posted in Work

Life offline

Today’s blog post explains what life has been like during the past three months.

I’ve had a really busy semester, with eleven pieces of course work due over the twelve week period. I’m nearly finished for this half of the year, and then I’ll have three weeks off with the family, and an additional week off with my mother, sunning ourselves on a Rarotongan beach.

I changed how I approached university this year. 2016 was my first year as a full-time student (this time round, anyway), and it was hard. I felt driven by a lot of self-imposed pressure to achieve very high grades, partially because I was fixated on whether I might want to pursue post-graduate study, which would require scholarships (which are usually contingent on grades), and partially because I have a healthy ego and had fooled myself into thinking that I should do really well at everything. The outcome was good grades, but at the expense of a lot of personal happiness for me and for those who are closest to me: I worked a lot, had many late nights, and was permanently tired, which was stressful for all concerned.

But this year I got some help from an amazing counsellor I know, and devised a strategy that would better enable a reasonable work-life balance. Amongst other things, this included:

  1. Treating uni like a job: working there all day, but not taking work home with me in the evening;
  2. Acknowledging that, when my degree is finished, nobody will care what marks I received for each assignment, or even what my grades were for each paper I sat; and
  3. Recognising that, while it is important to be ambitious, it is equally important to be happy.

For the most part I have managed to keep these guidelines in mind. I’ve left my laptop in my locker at the end of the day from Monday to Thursday most of the time, with occasional assignment-related exceptions. I’ve only had three or four very late nights of assignment-writing, and I’ve even managed to cut back on the amount of weekend work I was doing.

The change has been transformative. Although this past semester has been the busiest one to date, I haven’t felt stressed out by it – I’ve had none of that horrible, overwhelmed, ‘the slightest thing is going to reduce me to tears’ kind of feeling that was pretty much my default throughout much of 2016. I think the most fruitful change I’ve made was the decision to stop work at the end of each day. I am at uni from 8am until 4.30pm, Monday until Friday, and I spend most of that time in lectures, or working on assignments.

I’ve also learned about opportunity cost from a personal perspective. At the moment, I have to prioritise university, because I don’t have the time and energy to juggle it with a busy social life, for example. This means that the kids and I have far fewer play dates than was the case in 2016. Although I miss my friends, and really enjoy it when we do get to see each other, I know that this period of my life won’t last forever, and I’m better off being realistic about how much time I need for study, rather than cutting my uni time short and paying the price later. Luckily, my friends are lovely, understanding people who totally recognise what I’m up against. My husband is endlessly supportive of my workload, and my children are very tolerant and accepting, and cared for by a wonderful au pair who ensures that their non-kindy time is filled with fun. And I did manage to squeeze in a weekend away with four twin mum friends a few weeks ago, which was just what I needed.

I found it easier to focus on my work after learning about the benefits of mindfulness. I wanted to improve my ability to do one task at a time, instead of attempting to multi-task and not doing anything well. I picked up some tips via the free courses provided by two apps – Calm, and Headspace – and both were excellent. During the first few weeks of the semester I’d listen on my phone during my morning bus ride, and would sit there with my eyes closed and my headphones in, meditating. My habit is now to meditate each evening, when I go to bed. It definitely helps me get to sleep very easily. I need to get better at meditating each morning, to set myself up for the day ahead.

I’ve also tried to eat more healthily this year. My attempts to be a sugar-free abstainer still face occasional hurdles, and I seem to have morphed into a 90% moderator, but I will continue to work on this habit. Another habit I’m trying to develop – regular exercise – remains elusive, and although I’ve been able to link this to a lack of time throughout the semester, I now have time while on study leave, and am still not running every day like I’d intended.

The last change I’ve made this year is the decision to consciously spend less time online, specifically on Facebook. I love Facebook because it enables me to keep updated with my friends’ and extended family’s lives, and because I’m in some fantastic groups, full of amazingly smart and interesting women. When my uni work is going well I don’t find it difficult to be disciplined about staying off Facebook during the day, but if I’m struggling with a tough assignment it is too easy to go online and become embroiled in a fascinating conversation, or mindlessly scroll through people’s updates. To combat this, I’ve asked Tristan to change my Facebook password, so once I’ve logged out, I can’t get in again. I’ve also removed the Facebook app from my phone, so I’m even less tempted. For a few weeks I just had Facebook on our iPad at home, but recently, with two huge deadlines and an exam within ten days of each other, I’ve logged out there as well. I find that, after a day or two, I barely miss it.

Facebook isn’t the only online distraction, and to stop general time-wasting I’ve found a cute app called Forest, to help me be more mindful of the time I waste reading online news when I should be working. It enables you to grow virtual trees while you don’t use your device – and if you give in and leave the app, your tree dies. It’s a visual reminder that you really don’t want to waste time online when you could be working. It’s helped me to keep my phone out of my hand, and my mind on my work, so I think it was $2.99 well spent.

The changes I’ve made are working for me: less stress, better sleep, fewer late nights – and, very surprisingly – higher marks for my course work. I had braced myself for my grades to take a dip, and had told myself that this was an acceptable trade-off in light of the benefits of my new approach. Yay for happy side effects!

 

Posted in Feminism, Life philosophies

Grey hair, don’t care

Today’s blog post explains why – in 2010, when I was 35 – I stopped dyeing my hair.

There are two reasons:

  1. The minor ‘opportunity cost’ reason; and
  2. The more significant ‘colouring grey hair is anti-feminist’ reason.

Opportunity cost

I stopped dyeing my hair because I no longer wanted to spend at least a couple of hours every four weeks in a hair salon. I also didn’t want to pay for colouring my hair on a regular basis (and didn’t want to pay for cheaper dye and try to do it at home – I am pale, my hair colour was brown, and I was insufficiently dextrous to manage the job without dyeing my ears and having strange dye markings on my forehead and neck).

If you’re disinterested in feminist discourse, this would be a good place to stop reading. If you choose to keep reading, but then find what follows wildly upsetting or offensive, please feel free to start your own blog, write a rebuttal, and send me the link.

Colouring grey hair is anti-feminist

I believe that, whether we choose to accept or acknowledge it, ALL women living in the developed world are viewed according to a very narrow set of appearance standards, and we all follow those standards to some degree.

This does not make us ‘bad feminists’: it makes us people who may choose to challenge some standards but not others. This can be because we have internalised some of the appearance standards so successfully that we genuinely believe that we choose to prefer a certain look entirely independently of the societal expectations placed upon us – and it’s very hard to test that, because you’d need to raise somebody entirely free of the influence of appearance standards, which is virtually impossible. Signs of this thinking can be seen a lot when you do what I did, and stop colouring your hair: I’ve honestly lost count of the number of friends who have told me that they think my hair, which must be at least 40% grey now (and ‘grey’ is a euphemism – my hair is going white), looks great, but that they can’t imagine doing the same thing because their hair won’t look as good as mine. Actually, that’s a lie: virtually everybody I know with whom I’ve ever talked about my lack of hair colour has made that comment, so I could pretty much add up all of the female friends and family members I’ve spoken to in the past six years, and give you a precise figure. These women genuinely don’t believe that they will be able to ‘pull off’ grey hair. And it’s true that, in some lights, my greying hair looks sun-bleached, or even deliberately highlighted. But let’s be honest: you don’t have to look at it for long before you realise that it’s just grey hair:

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It can also be that we are well aware that we routinely accept appearance standards, despite knowing that they are unfair, unrealistic, or unattainable. There’s no shame in that – we are social creatures, and it’s important to us to be accepted and recognised by our broader tribe. However, I believe that we shouldn’t be disingenuous about it. We can acknowledge that we feel pressure to look a certain way (even if it’s self-inflicted pressure, because we’ve grown up believing that only smooth legs are attractive, or that wrinkles are ugly, and now we can’t de-programme ourselves), but that we continue to met the appearance standard regardless. Or it could be that we’re steadily trying to de-programme ourselves, one element at a time. It takes confidence to do that, and some women never obtain it in sufficient quantities to reject even one of the appearance standards. There’s nothing wrong with that – but, again, I think it’s a good thing to be cognisant of what’s going on.

The appearance standards aren’t a new phenomenon: women have been expected to look a certain way for a long time, and certainly long before the proliferation of mass media that we now often hold accountable for the appearance standards against which we’re judged. In virtually every example, appearance standards have developed from what heterosexual men consider to be attractive at the relevant point in time. It has been a few centuries since both men and women felt obliged to wear makeup, elaborate wigs, and restrictive or excessively decorative clothing in order to appear fashionable or attractive. Men recognised that time spent on adorning themselves was time that could be better spent on any number of alternative pursuits, and men’s fashion and appearance standards became simpler. However, the standards for women continued, and still continue.

Some examples of the appearance standards that apply almost exclusively to women include:

  • Maintaining an artificially low body weight;
  • Wearing makeup;
  • Removing body hair in order to have smooth skin (instead of to avoid a beard);
  • Wearing restrictive or impractical clothing;
  • Using cosmetic surgery or other procedures to avoid or correct signs of ageing; and
  • Dyeing grey hair.

These points highlight the key theme of the appearance standards applied to women: the value placed on women appearing as young as possible, for as long as possible. Men are allowed to age gracefully, but women are encouraged by a wide range of subtle and blatant practices to view any physical evidence of ageing as intrinsically unattractive. There’s a reason for this, of course: historically men have valued women primarily as the bearers of their children, and as we age we obviously lose the ability to conceive. Younger women are also traditionally more malleable and less likely to contradict men.

So, when we wear makeup to make our complexions look smooth, with the flushed cheeks and darker lips that mimic sexual arousal, we’re emphasising youth. If we shave our underarms, legs, and bikini lines, we’re harking back to the time when we were younger and didn’t have as much body hair. Younger women are often slim, and as we get older we tend to gain weight (particularly after having children). I believe that all of these statements apply, even if we don’t fully appreciate that these reasons are why we feel compelled to wear makeup, remove body hair, or stay as slim as possible. And the blatant attempts to conceal ageing through cosmetic procedures and the cover-up of grey hair really don’t need any further explanation.

I think it’s obvious why this is all anti-feminist: feminism is defined by the Oxford English Dictionary as ‘the advocacy of women’s rights on the ground of the equality of the sexes.’ Appearance standards that apply almost exclusively to women are, by definition, anti-feminist. Obviously, there are some exceptions – there are some men who choose to colour their grey hair, or use cosmetic surgery or other procedures to combat the physical signs of ageing. We live in a rabidly anti-fat modern society, so men also may feel pressure to view their body fat with disgust (although you don’t see many men around who are maintaining an artificially low body weight). And many younger men take a great deal of pride in their general grooming and personal appearance – but the effort required will almost always extend no further than having a good haircut, and shaving regularly. Recently, shaving has become less of an issue in light of the hipster fashion for beards, that most masculine of facial accessory.

For the most part, the men in our lives spend a tiny fraction of their time devoted to their appearance, particularly when compared to the time spent by the women in our lives. What confounds me is how – even in an age where I honestly know of very few women who, when forced to set aside their prejudices against the term ‘feminist’ and whatever undesirable political or social connotations it holds for them, and instead just acknowledge its true meaning, wouldn’t qualify as feminists – so many of us keep obeying the appearance standards. We don’t question why it is that, for example, men’s underarm hair is totally normal, but women’s underarm hair is regarded as ‘dirty’ or ‘gross’, and cultures where women don’t shave under their arms are ridiculed for it. Do women have special magical underarm hair that becomes more offensive when they sweat? Or is it simply because any normal bodily odours are regarded as ‘unfeminine’, and woe betide any woman that doesn’t value and emphasise her femininity?

And pertinent to the topic of colouring grey hair: why is my 72 year old mother unwilling to stop dyeing her hair, because she feels like it will make her look like an old lady (despite being an absolute legend who got her law degree in her fifties and is still practising, helping families in crisis on a daily basis), while my 72 year old father has snow white hair, and not much of it left, but wouldn’t dream of concealing it? My mother is quite justified in her concerns, in my opinion: in a professional context people possibly would make negative assumptions about her competence and mental acuity, based on their perception of how older women typically think and behave, but those people would almost certainly not make the same assumptions regarding my father. My mother has a young face, and with dyed hair she does look younger than 72. Like I said, it’s a man’s world.

So, I stopped colouring my grey hair because I was fed up with imposing yet another appearance standard on myself, and, in particular, an ageist appearance standard. I refuse to accept the idea that greying hair is ugly, or that looking older is a bad thing, or that getting older is a bad thing. We systematically undervalue older people in society, and it is a disgrace. One day soon it’ll be our parents who are being disregarded and seen as sexless, witless, and irrelevant, on account of their age – and then, before you know it, it’ll be us.

Like I said earlier, many women with strong feminist sensibilities are on a de-programming spectrum when it comes to appearance standards – and many more of us are entirely and unhappily aware of the appearance standards, but choose to keep obeying them. I don’t colour my grey hair, but here’s what I still do:

  • Prefer to be a body weight that is on the light side of healthy for my height;
  • Wear makeup on occasion (although I’ve stopped wearing it at all on a day to day basis);
  • Remove ‘excess’ body hair (in the summer, at least); and
  • Make at least some attempt to wear flattering clothes, most of the time.

The above list is why I have no judgement for anybody who chooses to get Botox, dye their hair, live on a permanent diet, put their makeup on as soon as they wake up each morning, and remove all hair south of their eyelashes. Also, I have no judgement because it’s none of my business what other women choose to do to their bodies. However, I do harshly judge women who feel that it’s appropriate to criticise other women who have rejected certain appearance standards (and this includes consumers of magazines that gleefully highlight any apparent step away from the appearance standards by celebrities who may have gained weight, or neglected to get a face lift after their thirtieth birthday). My suggestion is this: rather than making unpleasant remarks about somebody’s hairy legs or whatever, we should probably wonder what we can do to gain the same amount of body confidence that the hairy-legged woman possesses – after all, she’s turned her back on something that most of us are still enslaved by. And any woman who negatively comments on the physical signs of ageing in another woman needs to worry less about what people look like, and more about what people do.

Posted in Life philosophies

Abstaining and moderating

The year is only a few weeks old and already I’ve recommended Gretchen Rubin’s fantastic book Better Than Before to several people who want to change their lives in small and meaningful ways. I really enjoyed this book when I first read it in 2015, and again when I reread it recently: Rubin explores the science behind forming and maintaining habits, reasoning that establishing patterns of behaviour as habits makes it easier for most people to achieve daily goals, because they no longer have to expend much mental energy on choosing to behave in a certain way. Her rationale is that, like we don’t need to put any effort into brushing our teeth twice a day – it’s just a habit – we can develop similar habits in all areas of our lives.

A key element of her book is what she describes as the Four Tendencies: four personality profiles that shape how people respond to internal and external expectations. They are: Upholders (who find it easy to meet their own goals, and the broader ‘rules’ of society); Questioners (who find it easy to meet their own goals, but only worry about other people’s rules if they believe that they’re sensible and relevant); Obligers (who always strive to meet other people’s expectations, but sometimes struggle to meet their internal goals unless they can externalise them – like having a running partner to ensure that you stick to a running plan); and Rebels (who don’t want to be tied down by their own goals, or anybody else’s rules. I really urge you to seek out this book and learn more about it all (and also listen to Rubin’s podcast, which is excellent, and follow her on Facebook, and read her blog). Better Than Before is full of useful strategies for establishing good habits (and dropping bad habits), tailored to work with your ‘Tendency’.

Today I want to talk about an idea that Rubin discusses, because it resonated with me when I first read Better Than Before, and continues to make sense to me. Essentially, she challenges the accepted wisdom that attempting to totally give up something – particularly in the case of trying to eat healthily, for example – is doomed to fail, and that moderation is key. Rubin’s response to this idea is that moderation works for some people, but that for many others total abstinence is easier. Her rationale is that abstinence actually takes far less mental energy than the effort required to decide how much moderation is enough. Here’s an extract from Better Than Before that explains her perspective:

Within the study of habits, certain tensions reappear: whether to accept myself or expect more from myself; whether to embrace the present or consider the future; whether to think about myself or forget myself. Because habit formation often requires us to relinquish something we want, a constant challenge is: How can I deprive myself of something without feeling deprived? When it comes to habits, feeling deprived is a pernicious state. When we feel deprived, we feel entitled to compensate ourselves – often, in ways that undermine our good habits.

I realized that one way to deprive myself without creating a feeling of deprivation is to deprive myself totally. Weirdly, when I deprive myself altogether, I feel as though I haven’t deprived myself at all. When we Abstainers deprive ourselves totally, we conserve energy and willpower, because there are no decisions to make and no self-control to muster.

“Abstainers” do better when they follow all-or-nothing habits. “Moderators”, by contrast, are people who do better when they indulge moderately.

Abstaining is a counterintuitive and non universal strategy. It absolutely doesn’t work for everyone. But for people like me, it’s enormously useful.

As an Abstainer, if I try to be moderate, I exhaust myself debating: How much can I have? Does this time “count”? If I had it yesterday, can I have it today? In Oscar Wilde’s novel The Picture of Dorian Gray, a character remarks, “The only way to get rid of temptation is to yield to it,” and it can be a relief to give in, to end the tiresome mental chatter about whether and why and when to indulge. But I’d discovered, abstaining cures that noise just as effectively. I’m not tempted by things I’ve decided are off-limits. If I never do something, it requires no self-control to maintain that habit.

This was a bit of a revolutionary concept for me, but it totally appealed to my Upholder nature: I’ve always enjoyed giving stuff up, because I like reminding myself that I control my body and my life, and am not in thrall to anything or anybody else. So, last summer, I gave up my drug of choice:

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And I discovered that Rubin was right: it was FAR EASIER to just never eat sweets, rather than endlessly trying to moderate my sweet-eating (I really love sweets). I didn’t go all hard-core and “I QUIT SUGAR!!” about it (in other words, I wasn’t religiously reading lists of ingredients when buying loaves of bread), but I stopped eating things that were obviously full of sugar: sweets, chocolate, soft drinks, fruit juice, cakes, biscuits, and all desserts and puddings. I also tried to eat less fruit and more vegetables.

This was a hugely successful strategy for me: I lost four or five kilos, which was nice, but more importantly I gained a huge amount of energy as my blood sugar stopped climbing and plummeting in response to what I ate. I found that, as time went by, my typical eating each day involved a lot more protein and vegetables, and that it was no hardship at all to eat in this way.

But… during 2016 my university year was horrendous, and I started comfort-eating sweet stuff occasionally. And then a little bit more often. And then nearly every day. And then daily. And it confirmed for me that I am not a Moderator: I love sweet food too much to be able to control myself. ‘A bag of sweets on Friday night’ would turn into “Oh – we’re going to the cinema, so I’ll have my bag of sweets on Tuesday this week”, and then Friday would arrive and I’d have that bag of sweets again – plus a hot chocolate nearly every day, and biscuits if they were around. The outcome has been the return of those four or five kilos I lost, and while that’s not a drama (I’m a healthy weight at either end of that particular equation), I know that my body doesn’t function well when I eat too much sugar: I don’t sleep well; I get more tired; I have digestive issues… really, sugar IS a drug for me, and not a good one.

So I’m on my third day of my return to sugar abstinence, and this time I’m determined to stick with it. The whole situation has reminded me of something else Rubin has written in the past, about how having a slip-up is sometimes necessary in order to remind you about what works for you. And if you’ve also struggled to control your consumption of something, maybe you might want to try the Abstaining approach too, and see if ‘deciding not to decide’ works for you.

Posted in Feminism, Health and beauty

Skin care like a grownup

(A short history of my skin: it was good while I was at school; any issues in my late teens and early twenties were kept at bay by the contraceptive pill and its miraculous skin-calming qualities; I moved to the UK in my early twenties and my skin rebelled against me for several years, despite a fair bit of investment; I eventually returned to New Zealand and got pregnant, which did wonders for my complexion; since having the kids my skin has remained fairly decent, with only the occasional spot.)

I have been undeniably low-key about looking after my skin since it improved, partially because skin care products are much more expensive in New Zealand (and facials are regarded as luxury items), and partially because I’m both a bit lazy, and very busy. I also don’t worry about fighting various signs of ageing, for three reasons:

  1. I already look pretty young (thanks to genetics and, I suspect, living in a very overcast country for nearly fourteen years of my adult life).
  2. I reject the notion that only ‘looking young’ can be (or is) regarded as attractive.
  3. I resent the ongoing assumption that men can age gracefully, but women are supposed to worry about it. I’ve got better things to do with my time, thanks – I’ll start stressing about grey hair and wrinkles when EVERY SINGLE MAN I know does likewise.

However, despite not being concerned about the inevitable lines and wrinkles, I do like my skin to be soft, supple, healthy, and as clear as possible. And thanks to Burned Out Beauty, the blog written by my friend Jackie Danicki (the Original Beauty Blogger who was busy in this game when the current crop of beauty bloggers were probably still using Clearisil), I actually feel like I know now how to achieve that!

Jackie’s approach is less about the products (although she will recommend brands if she thinks they’re worth it), and more about an overall attitude to skin care. Here are the main things I’ve learned:

  • Foaming cleanser is nobody’s friend (and I have stopped using it as a result).
  • Nobody should be influenced by weird celebrity trends, like not washing one’s face in the morning (it wasn’t something that had occurred to me to try, thankfully).
  • If you want clean skin at night, you should double-cleanse (just washing your face once is unlikely to get it properly clean).
  • You should have a ‘menu’ of skin care products, to use in response to what your skin needs each day (I’d assumed that the same stuff would be fine every day).
  • Oil should not be feared as a skin care product, even if you’re occasionally inclined towards spottiness.
  • Micellar water will not get your face properly clean, despite what bottle labels and advertisements say (and if you take a look at the cotton pad after you’ve used this stuff on your face, this shouldn’t come as a surprise to you).
  • Serums really are a good thing to incorporate into your skin care routine.
  • Skin care products are insanely cheap in the USA, and reading details of the offers that Jackie mentions will make you sick with envy (they make me very nostalgic for my days of living in the UK and being able to access the wonders of Boots and Superdrug).

Since following some of Jackie’s advice the overall condition of my skin has improved substantially, so I thought I’d share the details of my ‘regime’. They are extremely budget-friendly, as we’re a one-income, mortgage-and-au pair-paying family and I don’t have much cash available for this kind of thing (but one day I’m going to make it back to New York, at which point I will raid Jackie’s bathroom for her cast-off products).

I wash my face each morning either with Neutrogena Extra Gentle Cleanser, or with Yes to Tomatoes Daily Pore Scrub, and then I massage three drops of By Nature Organic Rosehip Oil into my dried skin:

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Although the scrub claims to be gentle enough for daily use, I’m not convinced – I use it a couple of times a week. And that rosehip oil has been what the youth of today describe as ‘a bit of a game-changer’: it’s improved my skin more than anything else, in my opinion.

If I’m staying inside for the day (or if it’s raining) I then use By Nature Hydrating Day Creme, and if I am going to be outside I use Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Dry-Touch Sunscreen:

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That’s been my go-to facial sunscreen for at least the last three years. It’s brilliant: it absorbs very well, and leaves a matte finish that is perfect under makeup. I also use it as the kids’ facial sunscreen, since it’s very easy to apply and isn’t runny.

Most of the time I don’t bother wearing any makeup, because the combination of the oil and the moisturiser or sunscreen seems to be enough to make my skin look fine (plus: lazy, remember). But in the evening I still stick with Jackie’s recommended double cleanse. The plot twist is that I use Garnier SkinActive Micellar Cleansing Water in Oil for the first cleanse, and Neutrogena Oil-Free Eye Make-Up Remover for eye makeup (if I’m wearing any, which only tends to happen once or twice a week).

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I figure that the micellar water is OK for the first cleanse, since I’m going to be giving my face a thorough wash straight afterwards. I use it exactly as directly, and am always amazed at how grimy the cotton pads look afterwards, and how crazy it would be to assume that my skin was then clean. It’s also hopeless for eye makeup removal, despite what it claims: it stings, and it doesn’t shift even very light coatings of mascara. For that the Neutrogena product is great: the only decent (cheap) alternative to my all-time favourite (and now out of my price range) eye makeup remover, Lancome Bi-Facil Eye Makeup Remover, which is the best one I’ve ever used (if you ever visit me from abroad, please bring me some from Duty Free). I tried several low-cost eye makeup removers in my quest to replace my beloved Bi-Facil, and this Neutrogena one was the only thing that didn’t sting my eyes.

For my second cleanse I use either Goodness Every Day Cream Cleanser, or Yes to Cucumbers Daily Gel Cleanser, depending on how my skin’s feeling that day.

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That cream cleanser is the first Goodness product I’ve tried, and I really like it – I’ll definitely experiment more with that brand, and this particular cleanser is likely to migrate into my morning routine when I use up my current Neutrogena cleanser. And I really like the gel cleanser, which leaves my skin feeling very clean without making it tight and dry, but one of these days I’ll have to come up with a good alternative: the ‘Yes to’ products were all over the place until recently, and now all of the supermarkets seem to have decided not to stock them (fortunately I’ve stockpiled another one or two tubes of this cleaner, plus a couple of the scrubs I mentioned earlier, so I’ll be fine for a while).

And after I’ve cleansed I follow yet more of Jackie’s advice, using By Nature Moisture Replenishing Face Serum, followed by By Nature Replenishing Night Creme. And I pat a bit of By Nature Rejuvenating Eye Creme under my eyes, since that skin is very delicate and prone to looking a bit dry and crepey otherwise.

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The combination of that serum and the night creme makes my skin feel like velvet.

And that’s it! Although it sounds like a lot of products, it takes no more than a couple of minutes, morning and night. And the products I use are seriously affordable: those By Nature products are incredibly well priced – only $20 for the oil, which will probably last me until I’m 50 – and $10 for the eye creme – and extremely good quality. I became quite keen on prioritising the use of natural and organic products when I was trying to get pregnant, and continued it when the babies were on board, and now it’s become second nature, so those Neutrogena products are likely to be phased out as I find slightly more ‘natural’ alternatives.

Posted in Bullet journal

Bullet Journal 101

Today I want to talk about my bullet journal:

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If you’re unfamiliar with bullet journals, here’s a handy video from bulletjournal.com that shows exactly what this is all about.

Essentially, a bullet journal is an analog way of combining a planner, a journal, a notebook, and – if you’re artistically inclined – a sketch pad. It’s designed to be as straightforward or as elaborate as your time and personal taste allows: for some people, it’s a very basic collection of task lists and calendar entries; for others, it’s an outlet to blend together form and function by writing task lists and decorating the pages with beautiful lettering and illustrations. You can make the pages themselves as fancy or as plain as you like: the only ‘equipment’ you need is a notebook, a pen, and a ruler (and that isn’t really essential if you’re not as obsessive about ruled lines as me) – plus, some coloured pens or pencils if you want to embellish your pages. Some people also use washi tape to make things look pretty.

The concept was dreamt up by a digital product designer called Ryder Carroll. The system of journal-keeping that he devised includes the following main elements:

Rapid Logging: using topics, page numbers, short sentences, and bullets as key features to organise information. Topics are the headings on a page. Page numbers enable you to list pages in an index and find them easily in the future. Short sentences stop you from waffling on, increasing the chances that you’ll actually use your journal to organise yourself. Bullets are a specific way of writing information, in order to see at a glance what is a task, for example, and what is a reminder of an event. A task is a dot, an event is a circle, and a note is a dash. And then you put a big X through the bullet when you’ve completed the task or attended the event. This Daily Log of mine shows the bullets:

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You can choose whatever information you need to track. On this Daily Log, I was tracking some habits by using a colour-coded system (the flowers each represented a habit, and I’d colour them in if I’d followed it that day). And I wrote my packing list for a trip I took at the end of this particular week, as you can see.

Modules: a framework for information. The main modules are the Index, the Future Log, the Monthly Log, and the Daily Log. The Future Log is like an annual plan or a six month plan – the place where you’d note planned holidays, for example. The Monthly Log organises your tasks on a monthly basis. And the Daily Log is a daily to-do list.

Here’s my current Index, which is very plain:

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Here’s my Future Log:

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I’ve used a different colour for each month, and then use that colour for the headings on the corresponding Monthly Logs and Weekly Logs. Here’s a Monthly Log:

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I’ve chosen to also record the books I’ve read each month on the relevant Monthly Log page – and this is one of the reasons why I love my bullet journal: how much more fun to actually draw books, rather than just write a list!

Another great feature of making a bullet journal is the freedom to redesign features whenever you like. Here’s another version of a Monthly Log:

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And here’s another Weekly Log, which differs slightly to the one at the start of this post:

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I don’t do Daily Logs anymore because I got sick of migrating tasks: instead, I do a Weekly Log with a section for each day, so I can see the whole week’s worth of tasks on one two-page spread.

Migration: moving uncompleted tasks forward to new Monthly Logs or Daily Logs as required. On the Daily Log and Weekly Log pages I’ve shared above you can see migrated tasks – they’re the ones with the ‘>’ symbol.

Additional pages: for whatever you want to track, note, or remember. This is the beauty of a bullet journal, and where it beats a traditional diary when it comes to flexibility: if you need to include a page to plan your children’s birthday party, for example, you just add it in, and then note it in the Index so you can easily find it later:

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I use pages like this a lot. Here’s a two-page spread to record the books I own and intend to read (on the left-hand page), and books that I don’t currently own, but want to buy or borrow (on the right-hand page):

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Again, I could just write a list of books I’ve read, but drawing them on bookshelves makes the whole thing more fun. Occasionally I get really carried away, like when I did this page to keep track of the writing exercises I was tackling from a book I was reading:

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My drawing skills are minimal, so that level of detail is unusual in my bullet journal, but I have found that making things look pretty enables me to derive some enjoyment from what would otherwise be very dull grown-up tasks – like sorting out a household budget:

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Or writing a task list for a huge and scary uni assignment:

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Adding a decorative element makes me more likely to plan things, refer back to lists, and generally organise myself. And while I can appreciate that this looks like a lot of work, it really isn’t: I do most of it while watching TV in the evening. This is also the great benefit of a bullet journal: your pages are undated, so you can put stuff wherever it suits you, rather than being forced to fit it into a pre-ordained space – or being confronted with the sight of lots of depressingly blank pages if you decide not to use your journal for a couple of weeks. So, I drew up my NaNoWriMo tracking page when I signed up, in September, and then did other stuff around it:

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(Each square represented 500 words written: 50,000 words in total, written during November.)

And sometimes I find that my bullet journal provides me with a great opportunity to really investigate what I’m doing – like when I read this great book I Know How She Does It (all about how busy women manage to fit in everything), and was encouraged to track how I used my time over a week-long period. I colour-coded it, and was given a stark reminder of how out of kilter my life was that week:

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The golden rule of bullet journals is this: you do whatever you want – so, you can ignore as much of the preceding ‘rules’ as you like.

Here’s the first journal I’ve used:

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I’ve learned not to over-invest in new hobbies and habits, so this A5 notebook was from Whitcoulls and cost less than NZ$20. It’s got lined, unnumbered pages (so I numbered them by hand, which was a tedious task). However, now that I’m a bullet journal devotee I’ve decided to up the ante a bit and buy what are regarded as the gold standard of bullet journal hardware: the Leuchtturm 1917 notebooks, which are also A5, have dotted pages that lend themselves well to writing and illustration, and feature very useful pre-numbered pages:

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I’m also planning to go mad with a bit of washi tape, and maybe dabble with more drawings and attempts at fancier headings. Pinterest and Instagram are both full of brilliant bullet journal examples and inspiration, so if you’re keen to give this a go, I suggest browsing for ideas.

I love keeping a bullet journal because it gives me a chance to be somewhat creative, but in a productive context – plus, it’s as relaxing as adult colouring-in and similar activities, but you’re actually making your life easier through producing your pages! Win-win!

 

Posted in Pop culture

Pretty in Pink

Yesterday I shared my current obsession with rediscovering Beverly Hills 90210. Today, I thought that I’d up the ante by resurrecting a post I wrote five years ago, about one of my favourite 1980s films. If you haven’t seen Pretty in Pink since you were young, I urge you to seek it out immediately. It distills perfectly all of the crucial elements of fine teen film-making in that tragic decade and it has the most important thing to any 1980s teen film’s success: Molly Ringwald. Molly Ringwald was the pinnacle of 1980s girlhood: there was none cooler. She was Kelly Taylor before Kelly Taylor even existed. She was the Taylor Swift of her day.

You all know the story, right? Molly Ringwald plays Andie, a girl from the poor side of town who remains relentlessly chirpy in the face of her father’s ongoing unemployment. Andie makes her own clothes or customises charity shop bargains and her ‘thing’ is that she always wears something pink. Andie’s really clever and attends a very good high school by way of a scholarship. We know about her cleverness early on because she wears glasses: always a sure sign of being smart in Movieland.

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Andie’s best friend is Duckie, an unorthodox young man who worships her and who dresses in a beatnik, ‘alternative’ type of way, with many outfits looking like he’s donned every item in his wardrobe. He seems to be a slacker when it comes to academic work, so I’m not sure how he’s wound up at the posh school – a scholarship seems unlikely in his case.

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The school is the backdrop for an ongoing war between the rich kids (or ‘Richies’) and the poor kids. Of course, the actors playing the rich kids all look like they’re pushing 35. For example, this is Steff, the baddie of the film:

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He wears a light-coloured suit like that every single day. He looks and talks like a jaded Miami divorcee. It’s brilliant. Steff should be the star of a follow-up film. Anyway, early on Steff tries to hit on Andie and we learn that he’s been asking her out on a regular basis, only to be denied at every turn. Steff isn’t a guy to take rejection lightly – we know this because he calls her a ‘bitch’.

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I really like Andie’s car. How does a poor girl afford such a cool car?

A couple of other things happen early in the film: Andie gets hassled by rich girls (with awesome, back-combed hairdos) for her dorky clothes; and Andie sneaks a peek or two at Blaine, the resident sensitive rich boy heart-throb. This is Blaine:

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What a drip! I don’t see what Andie sees in him. We know that he’s less of a cool dude than Steff because he doesn’t wear a white suit to school; he wears light-coloured linen separates and pale blue shirts, instead. You know, like all the boys that you and I went to school with, back in the day.

And I’ve got to say that I think the rich girls might have a point vis-a-vis Andie and her unfortunate clothes:

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The film goes on. We get the idea that Andie takes Duckie and his devotion for granted. She’s a bit of a cow towards him, actually: she deliberately goes to a club that she knows won’t let him in; and she looks at him with a ‘smelling a fart’ face when he performs a fantastic lip-synching performance of ‘Try a Little Tenderness’ for her amusement.

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OK, Andie, we know that you don’t want to snog him, but you don’t have to be a dick about it.

Duckie’s performance is appreciated more by Iona, Andie’s record shop co-worker. Iona is what is best described as ‘kooky’, demonstrated by the wide range of looks that she sports throughout the film. Andie treats Iona like a replacement mother (because we later learn that her real mother just up and left her and her feckless father one day, when she was 14).

Andie and Blaine get together in what might be the earliest recorded example of cyber-dating. This is what Andie wears on their first date:

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If you were in your late 60s and going out on a first date with some dashing chap that you met at lawn bowls, this is the perfect outfit. Hilariously, Blaine asks her if she needs to go home and change first. *high fives Blaine*

And I’m sorry – but WTF, Iona?

The date is a bit of a disaster. For one thing, Duckie is horrified that Andie would date ‘the enemy’ – a rich kid – and acts like a toddler who has been denied a lollipop. And then Blaine decides to take Andie to a party at Steff’s house, even though she tells him that it’s a bad idea.

The party is full of rich kids having what looks to be a perfectly good time: drinking alcohol, dancing around in their underwear, hooking up. Andie parades through the place as though there’s some debauched orgy going on and doesn’t really make any effort. It’s at this point that I think I would have had serious reservations, had I been Blaine. They end up hanging out in a bedroom (as you do), and have a run-in with Steff and one of the bitchy rich girls, both of whom make it clear that Andie isn’t welcome.

The star-crossed lovers then try to spend the evening in Andie’s world, at the club where Duckie’s never allowed in (although the doorman makes an exception when Iona pretends that Duckie’s her son. Ew.) But that doesn’t go well either; Duckie is really rude to poor, hard-done-by Blaine. So the date ends up being a bit of a flop and, to top off the evening, Andie throws a wobbly when Blaine wants to take her home – she’s embarrassed about him seeing where she lives (a perfectly normal house, not a shack or anything). But Blaine has his manly way and drops her off, and asks her to the prom. This prompts Andie to just about snog his face off. Turns out that she did want to go to the prom, after all.

We see one subsequent date, which is spent in the stable of a country club. What’s with these two? Why can’t they just go to a diner, or catch a movie or something? The whole ‘Romeo and Juliet’ thing is a little over the top. Andie needed to just unwind a bit, have a vodka and tonic, and head back to Steff’s party. That looked like a good night.

Next up, we have a nice daughter/substitute mother scene with Andie and Iona, where they talk about proms and Iona gets out her awesome 1960s prom dress and puts it on (and puts her hair into a massive beehive, in case we’d forgotten about her kookiness).

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At this point in the film you remember Andie’s track record of cutting up clothes and start to fear for that cute dress. Andie then goes prom dress window-shopping (and even the woman working at the dress shop treats her like she’s an unwashed peasant and clutches her pearls at Andie’s weird outfit). Andie overhears one of the bitchy rich girls trying on a frock and looks all wistful and self-pitying.

Now it all gets very teenaged and angst-ridden. Andie has a big fight with her father, who admits that he’d lied to her about getting a job – it’s then that we hear all of the mother-related drama. She pretty much ruins a happy moment because her father has just bought her a really grim-looking pink frock to turn into her prom dress and she goes off at him about how he might of paid for it (and we never do find out, so he might be a drug runner). But her high emotion is understandable because Blaine’s gone cold on her and – get this – doesn’t call her back one night, even though she has left three messages! The cheek of him! She’s a bit stalker-y, I reckon. Of course, we know that Blaine’s got cold feet because Steff has stuck the boot in and asked him what in tarnation he’s doing, ‘dating trash’. And Blaine doesn’t actually defend Andie’s honour when she’s called ‘trash’, which is dodgy. Remember that at the end of the film, when he tries to brush off his behaviour.

So Andie deals with this challenging issue by stalking Blaine at his locker the following day, wearing this outfit and looking like an abandoned puppy:

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She has an all-out screaming fight with him (she’s the only one screaming, mind), and Blaine does the dirty by claiming that he’d forgotten about already inviting somebody to the prom. Cue a lot of tears and heartache for poor Andie.

Duckie later overhears Steff being horrible about Andie in a conversation with Blaine and tries to defend her honour, but he’s a bit of a weakling, so it doesn’t go well. And to be fair, Steff’s main issue was that Blaine might want to reconsider spending any time with a girl who will shriek at him like a harridan in the middle of a crowded school corridor. I fear that Steff may have a valid point here.

A few days pass and Andie cries on Iona’s shoulder. At this point, Iona has started a serious relationship with a pet shop owner and has started dressing like a normal person in a red shirt, white jacket and knotted pearls. She’s even rocking a curly mullet. All a woman needs is the love of a good man to save her from kookiness and fashion mayhem, it seems.

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Iona really doesn’t offer any words of wisdom, which makes her a pretty poor substitute mother. But Andie pulled herself together and asks to borrow that cute 1960s prom dress: she’s going to go to the prom on her own, goddamnit! She’s not letting those rich scoundrels keep her down! I have no idea why she doesn’t just call Duckie at this stage.

And seriously, WHY does Iona lend Andie the dress? It’s pure madness.

Brace yourself, kids – this is the unbelievably hideous and unflattering frock that Andie makes for the prom:

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In the history of prom dresses in films there has never been a more hideous prom dress, in any film. Of course, everybody asks as if Andie’s dress is the last word in chic and looks much better than the dresses that the other girls are wearing. That is a classic 1980s teen film trope.

The film ends predictably: Andie sees Duckie just as she’s mustering up the courage to go in to the prom and – of course – all is forgiven. Duckie’s wearing reasonably normal clothes, but reminds us of his ‘duckman’ status by drawing Andie’s attention to his filthy and inappropriate footwear.

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Meanwhile, the rich kids are having a typically world-weary time: Blaine’s rocked up alone and is drinking some cola-like beverage and Steff is bored rigid and is trying to tempt his slutty rich girlfriend out of the room for a bit of slap and tickle. But then Andie walks in and jaws drop (in a good way, despite the dress). And Andie and Blaine have A Moment, where he tells her that he never stopped believing in her; he just didn’t believe in himself. And that he loves her and always will.

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What bullshit is that? He dropped her like a hot coal after the slightest pressure from his friends.

So Andie doesn’t know what to do, but Duckie urges her to go after Blaine and they have a big snog in the parking lot. And they live happily ever after, supposedly – although I don’t buy the idea that Blaine has grown a pair and will be prepared to defend is relationship with Andie in the face of disapproval from his rich parents and friends. I give the whole thing six months, unless Andie gets knocked up and he makes an honest woman of her.

Things end well for Duckie – some rich-looking chick eyes him up on the dance floor and beckons him over, making a travesty of the idea that these poor kids are all honourable and above peer pressure: the moment a ‘Richie’ shows them any attention, they cave. So that’s the message to take away, party people: be yourself and be unique, until somebody richer or more stereotypically normal than you pays you attention. When they do, abandon your personal style and blend in. Awesome! And if your best friend falls in love with you, just ignore it and it will sort itself out.